So this blog post comes as a double treat for all those who revel in ancient architecture, history, local culture and bonhomie. Jodhpur and Jaisalmer are known the world over as the keepers of historical traditions. Only when we ventured into the quaint towns did we realize why.
The drive to Jodhpur is quite smooth except for the long hours, which by now having done quite a few road trips, I’ve got comfortable with. The breaks replete with sandwiches and tea/coffee by the car-side are now a common feature of most of our journeys by road. And when it’s Rajasthan, add to that pyaaz kachoris, meerchi pakodas and you’re sorted!! As we hit Jodhpur, we wandered our way to the Officer’s accommodation, where we were placed for the night. We freshened up and decided to have dinner out at ‘On the Rocks’. The entrance was rock-shaped and there was a light music playing in the background, setting the mood for a perfect evening. Dinner with dim lights under the night skies, and trees around echoing the sound-recorded version of a bird’s chirping – Jodhpur had already set the milieu a notch higher.
The next day brought with it its own share of excitement. Venturing first towards the Mehrangarh fort, we decided to take a tour guide. First of its kind where a lift takes you to the top, the fort stands at a height of 400 feet above the city. Built in 1459 by King Jodha, it is enclosed by imposing thick walls. With the entire town in sight from the ramparts, the mighty skies seemed to bow down to the swell and pride of the mystical fort, overlooking the ‘blue city’. For once, I did not mind the Monday morning ‘blues’.
Mehrangarh exposed us to the fervent flavours of history found in the jharokas, period rooms (meditation room, Moti Mahal, Phool Mahal), and various galleries. There was a gallery housing royal palanquins and howdahs (elephant seat) including the one presented by Shahjahan to Maharaja Jaswant Singh of Jodhpur as mark of special honour. The Daulat Khana housed some of the most intricate collections of fine art during the reign of Rathore rulers of Jodhpur who maintained close ties with the Mughals. From huqqa base, canons, costumes, to fire cup – chillam, it displayed various tastes of royalty. The paintings gallery displayed the finest Marwar paintings while the armoury showcased swords and stones-studded shields.
There’s music too that can be heard in the corridors of the fort. This emerges from the other side of the fort (the entrance, which we used as exit) where the locals are singing to the tunes of ‘Padharo Mare Des’ and ‘Nimbuda Nimbuda’ with a Rajasthani touch. I also sneaked in some shopping promoting the local crafts, with the mutli-colored tie-dye dupattas, camel-bone earrings and colourful lac bangles. As we exit through the mighty gate of the fort (the fort has a total of 7 gates, each with own historical significance.), we couldn’t help revelling in its brilliance.
The same evening we went to visit one of dad’s coursemates posted at Jodhpur, and later dined at ITC Grand Chola. Not in the mood for heavy food, we picked at Continental and digged into the pastas, prawns and breads, lacing it with a round of tiramisu. Nirvana was thus attained.
Another round of quick packing, and we hit the roads again, early morning and headed off to our next destination – Jaisalmer.
The drive to Jaisalmer was particularly delightful for the fact that we encountered a rare sight. The largest herd of camels hailing from the deserts galloped on the roads as if newly introduced to modern day cities. Jaisalmer, aptly called the ‘golden city’ basked in the day light and shimmered by night. Notwithstanding the dirty lanes, the Jaisalmer fort is truly one of its kind.
If I were to draw parallels between Kumbhalgarh, Amer, Mehrangarh and Jaisalmer forts, this one particularly stood out for it’s the only fort that stands amidst the township with people’s homes, a few rooftops with running restaurants, including a few ancient temples inside the fort area. Another one of its peculiarities is the yellow sandstone walls and the looks of a castle that are a hallmark. Rawal Jaisal strategically built the fort on Trikuta Hill, a massive rock rising 75 meters out of the surrounding sands. Containing three layers of walls, it served as a power-backed defence for the Rajput warriors with the enemies often getting entrapped between the second and the third walls. The tour guide acquainted us with the spot where the Rajput women committed jauhar (self-immolation), consequent to the fort being attacked and captured by Ala-ud-din-Khilji in the 13th century. The fort was under the control of the Mughals until 1762 when Maharaja Mulraj took control of the fort, until his death in 1820 when his grandson Gaj Singh took reigns of the fort. The Maharaja Gaj Singh presently resides in Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur city. The Royal Palace where the Raja performed his daily activities stands intact. One of the largest and most notable structures is the Laxminath temple that lies in the interiors of the fort. The by-lanes display colourful bags, footwear, and puppets hanging against the yellow sandstone.
Next, we headed for the Sam sand dunes area, lined by desert safari camps, with the owners persuading you for a camel ride, dune bashing on the jeep, and what not! We were quick to label them the ‘marketing team’ of the camps. Within minutes of stepping outside our car, we were pulled onto an open jeep ride tailing the expanse of the Thar deserts. And so we zoomed up and down at varying heights, dune bashing and screeching with every turn. Although it was nothing to compare against the Dubai desert safari, yet it held its steam, and we swayed across the huge expanse of the beautiful Thar. The vast stretch of the road ahead with sand dunes in sight on either side of the road at dusk ensured a lovely drive back to the city.
After resting for some while, we got readied for the last standing adventure of the day – scrounging through the lanes of the city for places to dine at. Having run google searches, checking ratings on trip advisor sites, rejecting some, we finally placed our bets on Hotel Nachana Haveli. The food was sumptuous, our palette a mix of Italian and Indian, with the spacious rooftop arrangement adding to the ambience.
Another remarkable feature of the golden city is that it houses many a havelis. Some of these havelis are eons of years old. And so with our satiated selves, we strolled past the by lanes of the city in search of the Patwon ki Haveli. Being the first Haveli erected in Jaisalmer, it is a cluster of five havelis. A renowned and rich trader of his times, Patwa constructed the same. Glowing in the street light, it is replete with individual depictions on each and every arch, and carvings very detailed and intricate. It is now occupied by the government and houses an art and craft department within the Haveli itself, as one of the workers there put it, in all enthusiasm.
Halting our journey in parts on way back the next day, our enriched selves reached Ahmedabad at 6 p.m., just in time to bring in the Diwali celebrations.
I have been to Udaipur and its near about only in Rajasthan and missed Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. Jodhpur’s architecture is really wonderful and the view of whole city with blue doors from top. Even I would love to admire Marwar paintings as I love art and painting. Even Rajasthani music is my favorite and would be great to witness live folk performers here. The golden Havelis of Jaisalmer too look stunning and photogenic. Good to know we get some Italian delicacies too here.
Yes, there’s so much to explore in Rajasthan! I love their folk music too! Also the food 🙂
This would be another memorable travel experience and it is cool that you visited this place. I never rode a camel yet, although we also have camels here in Australia. Is it me that I find the whole Fort looks so magical?
Oh you must try it out, I actually fell off once while trying to double ride with a friend, and have never gathered the courage to do it again haha! But it’s fun am sure.. The Forts in India are full of rich history and lavish decor from the ancient times, and cities like Jodhpur/Jaisalmer are living testimonies 🙂
Quite amusingly I’m yet to visit Rajasthan. I’ve been to Gujarat thrice so far, but somehow haven’t managed a visit to Rajasthan. And yes, Jodhpur & Jaisalmer are in my wishlist and not Jaipur. Mehrangarh fort looks magnificent! Good that you managed to hear some authentic folk songs sung by the locals. I would have been stumped to see a herd of camels walking through the roads. That’s would be funny, coz I’m used only to cows & goats.
Oh there is so much to explore, Udaipur too is worth exploring. Right, camel spotting was a welcome & exciting change haha! 🙂
Reading this felt like stepping back in time for me. I was in Jodhpur for 2 years from 2006-08, when dad was posted there, and it really has a special place in my heart. Mehrangarh fort was like the go to place, anytime any relatives visited. I still remember, going for evening drives all the way up to Umaid Bhavan, in a circuit sort of thing, and those spontaneous trips to Jaisalmer. BTW is that the Konark Mess in the backdrop?
Oh so cool, glad to get in touch with a fellow fauji-brat in the blogging space. Must have been amazing being stationed in the rich cultural city of Jodhpur. Am also reliving the memories as it has been some years since this trip/post. I believe the Mess is called the same, you are right. 🙂
How cool is that you saw a herd of camels on your way to Jaisalmer! Although they probably added some minutes to your driving times. Inside the Mehrangarh Fort is beautiful, but I agree with you that Jaisalmer Fort is more impressive with its coloring. And how fun it was to end your trip by jeeping on the sand dunes!
It was quite an adventure Umiko!
Both Jodhpur and Jaisalmer are spots we have not yet visited in India. I love the idea of starting my visit to Jodhpur with a panoramic view over the city from the Mehrangarh fort. It was great that you could tour the fort inside as well as outside. The arches and ceilings would keep me entranced for hours. We have run into cows on the road but not the camel traffic jam you had on your way to Jaisalmer. I am sure that the fort on the hill in Jaisalmer would have been an imposing sight when enemies showed up.
You’ll love the views and architecture Linda, plus these cities are replete with history. There’s always so much more to learn!
It is such a great guide, lots of valuable tips. I was in this area of India in 2008 during my first trip to India. Jodhpur and Jaisalmer are extraordinary places. I want to come back there one day. I love the architecture and art of those cities. I also love street food there.
So cool you have been here before! They are rich cities aren’t they?
Not only is the architecture of Mehrangarh incredible but the view of the blue city from the fort is amazing! I love that there is music playing throughout the corridors. I would love to browse all the royal artifacts, especially the costumes. What a great place to visit
Absolutely!
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I always wanted to visit Rajasthan and soak in the beauty and culture of the place. I hope I can visit sometime. Loved your blog post!
-The Kukkad Diaries
Gr8 wrk..njoyd reading??